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Aida, evenweave or linen: which fabric for cross stitch?

The fabric decides how large your piece becomes, how fine it looks and how easy it is to stitch. The three usual fabrics differ more than you might think.

Fabric samples of white Aida, cream evenweave and natural linen

Aida: the fabric to start with

Macro comparison of three fabric structures: block-woven Aida on the left, regular evenweave in the centre and irregular linen on the right
From left: Aida, evenweave and linen. The weave is the key difference: blocks, uniform individual threads or irregular linen threads.

Aida is woven in small blocks with clear holes between them. One block is one cross stitch. The fabric is firm, forgiving and available everywhere. Half and quarter stitches are fiddly on Aida because you have to pierce the block.

Evenweave: even and fine

Evenweave consists of single threads of equal thickness. You stitch over two fabric threads, so there is a hole in the middle of every stitch. That makes fractional stitches easy and the result calmer. In return, you have to count more carefully.

Linen: lively and elegant

Linen is stitched over two threads like evenweave. The threads vary in thickness, though, which gives the piece character and makes counting harder. Linen is the fabric for experienced stitchers and for pieces where a lot of fabric stays visible.

What does count mean?

The count tells you how many stitches or fabric threads fit into one inch. The higher the count, the smaller the finished piece. Because you stitch evenweave and linen over two threads, 28 count there equals 14 count on Aida.

How many strands on which fabric?

  • 11 count Aida: 3 strands
  • 14 count Aida: 2 strands
  • 16 count Aida: 2 strands
  • 18 count Aida: 1 to 2 strands
  • 28 count evenweave or linen over two threads: 2 strands
  • 32 count evenweave or linen over two threads: 1 to 2 strands

When in doubt, stitch a small sample near the edge. If the stitches cover the fabric without crowding, the number of strands is right.

Which fabric suits you?

  • First project or a full-coverage piece without fractional stitches: 14 count Aida.
  • Lots of fractional stitches and fine detail: 28 count evenweave.
  • Samplers and designs with plenty of bare fabric: linen.

Frequently asked questions

Is 14 count or 18 count finer?

18 count is finer. More stitches fit into an inch, so the piece is smaller and more detailed.

Can I stitch an Aida pattern on linen?

Yes. Take twice the count and stitch over two threads, and the piece comes out the same size.

How much fabric do I need?

The design size plus two to three inches of margin on every side. The fabric and thread calculator works it out for any count.

Where to go next

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